The Hardware, Tools, and 3D Printing Setup Behind My Ethernet Pixel Light Show

Welcome to the complete gear breakdown for my Ethernet-based pixel light show. This is where I list the exact hardware I’m currently using in my project box, my network layout, my 3D printers and filaments, and the tools and accessories that help the whole show run smoothly.

Some of the items below may contain affiliate links (such as Amazon Associates), which means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them. This helps support future upgrades, replacement pixels, and a lot of late-night testing.

Controller Hardware

This section covers the brains of my entire light show, the controllers and dev boards I rely on to drive every pixel. From my primary WT32-ETH01 Ethernet modules to the small ESP32 dev boards I use for testing, everything here represents the digital backbone of the build. I’m a big believer in reliability and repeatability, so I try to select hardware that gives me clean data, fast response, and long-term stability.

Device	Usage
WT32-ETH01 https://amzn.to/3XnmDBJ	My main controller for every prop. I chose these instead of typical Wi-Fi ESP32 boards because Ethernet gives me: – stable timing – faster responsiveness – no dropouts – perfect sync with my FPP server I also prefer the non-welded version so I can change the orientation of the Ethernet port and solder the pins exactly how I want for my own project box layouts. Although these boards include Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, I turn both off in WLED to save processing resources and avoid unnecessary wireless broadcasting.
ESP32 Wi-Fi Bluetooth Dev Board USB-C https://amzn.to/4akvsDQ	These are my go-to boards for testing WS2811 strings, new pixels, or small prototype setups before a prop gets permanently wired and added to the show. They’re cheap, reliable, easy to set up, and perfect for bench testing without needing to open the main controller box.
ESP32 38Pin Expansion Breakout Boards https://amzn.to/4rz01Ms	I had several of these leftover from a previous electronics project. They turned out to be extremely useful for this build because: – The extra pins act as clean landing points for wires – Great for quick testing – Perfect for temporarily securing connections until final installation – Helpful when experimenting with sensors or add-ons Basically: they keep your workspace neat instead of becoming a rat’s nest of loose wires.
Logic Level Shifter Converter Module Shifter 5V https://amzn.to/48pjSoj	There’s a lot of debate in the community about whether you should use: – a level shifter, or – a “sacrificial” spare WS2811 pixel as a buffer People argue both sides, and honestly, I’m not 100% sure how much a spare pixel really helps. But what I can say is this: Adding a proper 5V level shifter to my controller completely eliminated the low data power blinking issues I saw on a few longer strings. For me, the level shifter = cleaner data + fewer headaches.
Dupont Wire Jumper Set https://amzn.to/48HizT4	These are essential for: – prototype wiring – testing pixels on dev boards – connecting to breakouts – bridging test connections – even some final controller installs If you’re working with ESP32 boards (Ethernet or Wi-Fi), you’ll go through these constantly.

Pixels & Power

Here’s where the magic (and the electricity) actually meet. These are the pixels, power supplies, fuses, converters, and wiring components that physically bring the show to life. I’m very hands-on when it comes to customizing my pixel strings and keeping things budget-friendly, so you’ll see a mix of bargain choices, DIY upgrades, and some surprisingly powerful recycled hardware from my home lab builds. This blend of practicality and experimentation is a big part of what makes my build unique.

Device	Usage
WS2811 12V 12mm RGB Pixel LEDs https://amzn.to/48IITME	These are the main pixels I use throughout my show, and honestly, I chose 12V WS2811 nodes for a simple reason: They’re everywhere. 12V is the most widely available voltage for beginner- and mid-level pixel builds, and they’re extremely forgiving when your wiring runs start getting longer. I also purposely buy the cheapest versions without the waterproof X-Connect or RayWu connectors. Why? – I like customizing my pixel strings – I prefer stripping and terminating wires myself – I enjoy building exactly what I need – And yes… it saves money, somewhat Does it take more effort? Absolutely. More parts? Yep. More cursing while crimping? Can’t really tell. But the tradeoff is total flexibility. You can cut, splice, and modify strings however you like, no proprietary connectors or adapters needed. Your mileage may vary. Some people love the plug-and-play nature of X-Connect. But for me? Customizing my own wiring is half the fun. I like the WS2811’s with the power injection pigtails coming off the nodes themselves for easier builds.
HP Server PSU Power https://amzn.to/3XsRtsF	This is hands-down my favorite “hack” in the entire build. Instead of buying a dedicated pixel power supply, I went into my home lab stash and grabbed a couple HP server power supplies I had left over from previous cloud, storage, and AI server builds. These things are absolute monsters: – Platinum efficiency rating – 750W to 1400W+ output (especially at 200–240V) – Rock-solid 12V rails – Designed to run 24/7 for years – Built to handle constant load without flinching – Practically indestructible These units were originally used in enterprise server racks, but the ones you find online now are usually renewed/refurbished, which makes them super affordable compared to buying brand-new pixel power supplies or high-end Mean Wells. And here’s the best part: If these PSUs can handle virtualized servers, storage arrays, and GPU compute racks… then a few WS2811 pixels are basically a vacation for them.
GPU Crypto Mining PSU Breakout Boards https://amzn.to/4ptdSm9	Rather than wiring them raw, I use mining breakout boards, the same type used in GPU crypto mining rigs. Why? Because they give you: – Multiple clean 12V outputs – 6-pin GPU connectors – Built-in protections – Easy wiring distribution I already had these boards and GPU power cables from old crypto mining builds, so it made sense to reuse them.
12V 100W PSU (No-Name Bench Tester) https://amzn.to/4aj2Smj	This little power supply isn’t glamorous, branded, or anything fancy, but honestly, it’s one of the most surprisingly useful pieces of equipment on my bench. It’s a generic, no-name 12V PSU rated around 100W, and while it never goes inside my project boxes or runs anything in the actual light show, I use it constantly for testing. Usage: – Quick testing of WS2811 / WS2815 strings – Verifying pixel direction before committing to a build – Powering temporary breadboard setups – Checking a controller output without firing up the big PSU – Testing props before mounting them Because it’s small and lightweight, it makes testing simple without dragging out the big equipment. Notes: – It’s not meant for long-term show power, just quick tests – Doesn’t have the stability or power of my HP server PSUs – But it’s perfect for the bench where convenience > performance – Cheap, easy to replace, and very beginner-friendly – Safe enough to test a single prop or a new pixel strand before installation and to “burn in a string of pixels Think of it as the “multimeter” of power supplies, not what you use to run the show, but absolutely essential for getting everything ready. Sometimes the simplest tools are the ones you rely on the most.

Networking and Infrastructure

My networking setup ties everything together, literally. Since I run an Ethernet-first light show, this section highlights the switches, cables, and passthrough hardware that keep all my controllers talking smoothly to xLights and FPP. With my home lab background, I’ve built this part of the system with the same mindset as a real production network: stable, wired, clean, and easy to expand as the show grows.

Device	Usage
8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch https://amzn.to/4409TVh	A simple switch inside the project box connecting all WT32-ETH01 modules to a dedicated network. This is my go to switch for most of my projects. I usually have one or two of these around at my disposal at any given time, they are that cheap and that good. This is actually being powered by 12v coming off my HP PSU.
RJ45 Keystone Jack https://amzn.to/43XVQj2	I use these to terminate my Cat5e cables in my project box without getting too messy with wiring. I usually have about 20 on hand from an older project when I ran my home with RJ45 Cat6 cable.

3D Printing Setup

3D printing plays a bigger role in this build than most people expect. It’s not just for props, I print mounting brackets, fuse block holders, spacers, wire supports, cable clips, and custom enclosures. This section lists the printers, filaments, and functional prints I use to keep everything secure, organized, and perfectly fitted to my setup. If something doesn’t exist, I design it and print it.

Machine	Usage and Notes
AnyCubic Newer Version – https://amzn.to/3Xum8FY My Version – https://amzn.to/4oBOGIU	If my light show had a backbone, this printer would be it. The AnyCubic is my absolute workhorse, mainly because of one thing: The huge build volume. Usage: – Larger props (snowflakes, mini trees, window props) – Bulk printing (multiple mounting brackets at once) – Long overnight prints that require stable bed adhesion – Anything where dimensional consistency really matters Notes: – It takes up space, but it earns every square inch. The heated bed is fantastic for PETG, which I use for most outdoor parts. – Slow and steady, but nearly unkillable. 90% of my prop components were printed on one of my two AnyCubics. – If something needs to be strong, wide, or tall… it goes on this printer. This machine made the foundation of my setup possible.
Elegoo https://amzn.to/48s4k3u	If AnyCubic handles the big stuff, the Elegoo handles the smart stuff. This is my go-to printer for functional hardware, especially the smaller parts that need cleaner details or tighter tolerances. Usage: – Controller mounting brackets – Wire supports and passthrough guides – Fuse block holders – Tool adapters or organizers – Cable clips and strain relief parts – Repeatable, utility-style prints Notes: – Prints detail extremely well for the price. – Great with PLA+ and PETG. – No nonsense, very dependable. – Perfect for parts that need to fit around electronics (ESP32 mounts, keystone clips, etc.). It’s not my biggest printer, but it might be my most consistently accurate.
Bambu Labs https://amzn.to/3K6syrT	This is the printer I rely on when I need something fast or when my bigger machines are busy. Think of it as my “on-call engineer”, quick, precise, and always ready to take small jobs off my queue. Usage: – Quick replacement parts – Last-minute clips or mounts – Pixel spacers – Test pieces – Anything small that I need right now – Jobs that would take hours on the AnyCubic but minutes on the Bambu Notes: – Blazing fast compared to traditional printers. – Excellent for small detail parts and tight deadlines. – Compact footprint, doesn’t hog space. – It has saved me multiple times when the larger beds are tied up with long prints. It’s not the star of the show, but when I’m juggling multiple print jobs, Bambu Labs is the one keeping the workflow moving and for the most part, it just works with minimal adjustments.

Printing Filament Material

Filament choice matters more than people think, especially for outdoor pixel props. You need strength, durability, and weather resistance… and you need a lot of it if you’re printing full-season decorations.

I run multiple printers, so I keep bulk spools ready to go. Below are the exact filaments I rely on for my props, mounts, and hardware, including the specific brands and spool sizes.

Material Filament	Usage and Notes
Elegoo PETG – 3KG Mega Spool https://amzn.to/4ixakfZ	This is my main filament for props, the big, bold, visible pieces of the show. The 3KG spool is a lifesaver because large props burn through material fast, and nothing is worse than running out of filament at 2 AM during a long print. Usage: – Large props on the AnyCubic – Fan Arches – Singing and talking trees and bulbs – Any outdoor-exposed decoration – Pixel mounts that need strength and flex Notes: – PETG stands up to UV, moisture, and cold weather far better than PLA. My AnyCubic machines love this filament, it just works. This is the filament that’s behind most of the props people actually see in my show.
JAREES PETG – 3KG Spool https://amzn.to/4pdwaaP	This is my go-to for structural parts, internal components, mounting hardware, or anywhere I want the print to be both strong and hidden. If the white Elegoo filament is for the “show” side, the JAREES black PETG is for the “engineering” side. (Not based on any factual reference. More of personal thing.) Usage: – Prop backs or supports – Structural brackets – Pixel strip holders – Controller box hardware – Mounting plates, spacers, internal supports – Areas where strength > appearance Notes: – The toughness enhancement actually makes a difference, it bends before it snaps. – The 3KG spool size means it’s reliable for long utility prints. – Black hides wiring shadows and imperfections. – Adheres well, prints clean, and works on both the AnyCubic and Elegoo printers without fuss. – This is the “workhorse utility” filament for everything that isn’t meant to be see, but MUST be solid.
Overture PETG – Random Colors https://amzn.to/4osbc6P	I run more than a few printers for printing parts and pieces for customers and always find myself with left over filament from an order so I use these leftover Overture PETG spools for the non-critical or behind-the-scenes prints: Usage: – Prototype brackets – Mounts for things inside the controller box – Cable guides – Wire channels – First-test versions of clips or holders Notes: – Overture is a solid, reliable brand, I just no longer buy the small spools because the 3KG ones are more cost-effective. – Perfect for anything that doesn’t need to match a uniform prop color. – Great for learning and experimenting because it’s forgiving and predictable. This filament is basically the “shop rag” of my print setup, super useful and great for everyday utility prints.

Tools & Accessories

Behind every clean light show is a pile of tools that never make the final video. This section includes all the essential gear, soldering tools, crimpers, jumpers, heat shrink, multimeters, and everything else that helps me build, troubleshoot, and maintain the show. These aren’t glamorous items, but they’re the reason everything stays safe, powered, and working night after night. I am not going to list everything, but the things I do list, I consider very useful for multiple projects and ideas on your workbench.

Gear	Usage and Notes
Project Enclosure Box https://amzn.to/48z1zNU	A large, rugged PBT plastic enclosure that houses: – PSU – Fuse block – Level shifters – WT32-ETH01 controllers – Ethernet switch – Cable glands This is the main body of my build, think of it as the “server chassis” of the pixel world. Large enough to grow into, tough enough to mount outdoors, and perfect for a clean, organized internal layout.
6 Way Automotive Fuse Block https://amzn.to/48a0CfR	This is the central hub of all my prop power. I use it to safely distribute power to controllers, accessories, and other peripherals. The LED warnings are a lifesaver, If a fuse trips, the little red indicator lets me know exactly which circuit is the problem.
Automotive Fuse Kit (ATO Blade Fuses) https://amzn.to/48IQScA	No light show is complete without a full range of fuses. I use this pack for: – Protecting each prop – Power injection points – Testing new loads – Replacing blown protection fuses Comes with everything from 2A up to 35A and includes a fuse puller. Plug-and-play reliability.
Waterproof IP68 Cable Glands https://amzn.to/3Mui1r0	You’ll find these in the side of almost every outdoor enclosure I own. They’re perfect for: – Routing pixel wires – Strain relief – Waterproof pass-throughs – Keeping the enclosure sealed It’s the kind of small part that prevents big problems (like water damage).
USB-to-TTL Serial Adapter https://amzn.to/4p9htVZ	This is my go-to tool for: – Flashing ESP32 and WT32-ETH01 boards – Debugging startup issues – Viewing serial logs – Quick firmware tests Cheap, simple, and absolutely necessary if you ever brick a board.
Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit https://amzn.to/4rtJN73	This upgraded crimper gives you perfect ferrule terminations for: – Level shifter boards – JST connectors – Pixel data terminals – Power distribution boards – ESP32 headers Ferrules = clean, professional, rock-solid connections. Great for avoiding stray strands and improving reliability in your enclosures.
USB External Stereo Sound Adapter https://amzn.to/3XYCjLP	Perfect little audio interface for FPP setups, test benches, and backup audio output. I originally bought this because I needed a cheap, reliable way to handle audio output that didn’t require drivers, configs, or complicated passthrough, especially when I discovered that USB audio in Proxmox VMs wasn’t going to work for FPP. This adapter just… works. Usage: – Clean audio output from FPP running on a physical Linux machine – Testing pixel-to-beat animations – Verifying speaker output without touching my main PC – Plug-and-play audio for small shows or bench tests Notes: – Totally driverless — Linux, Windows, and Mac detect it immediately – Tiny, lightweight, and reliable – Zero fuss: plug it in, select it in FPP, and go – Great backup device if your main audio source ever dies – Also handy for quick sound tests during prop building It’s not fancy, but it solves a very real problem for anyone using FPP with external speakers.
FM Transmitter (Portable FM Radio Transmitter) https://amzn.to/3Ku99RI	This is the device that lets me broadcast the show’s audio straight to car radios, which is perfect for drive-by viewers and classic neighborhood-style displays. It’s compact, rechargeable, and surprisingly powerful for its size, making it ideal for a first-time show or any setup where you need to get FM audio out quickly without a rackmount transmitter. Usage – Broadcasting FPP show audio to nearby cars – Creating a “Tune to 87.9 FM” style experience Notes – Works perfectly when paired with the Sabrent USB audio adapter – Surprisingly clear audio for a budget transmitter – Ideal for seasonal shows that don’t need a huge broadcast radius – It’s the easiest way to add that classic “radio broadcast” effect to your light show without overcomplicating your setup.
Solder Seal Wire Connectors – Blue (16–14 AWG) https://amzn.to/3K4FNcF Solder Seal Wire Connectors – Red (22–18 AWG) https://amzn.to/4aotAKh	Perfect for pixel wiring, especially common in 12V runs and injection lines. These connectors let you: – Heat + shrink + solder in one motion – Make quick field repairs – Get waterproof, vibration-resistant joints I always keep a handful of these in the project box for emergencies.
Heat Gun https://amzn.to/4pHi6pP	This is the muscle of my heat-shrink and connector toolkit. When you’re building a pixel light show, you end up heating a lot of things: – solder-seal connectors – heat-shrink tubing – waterproof seals – cable wrap – PETG prints that need a tiny “persuasion” to fit This PORTER-CABLE heat gun is powerful, reliable, and heats up faster than most of the cheaper options out there. Usage – Shrinking solder-seal butt connectors (my blue and red HKS kits) – Sealing waterproof joints for outdoor props – Tightening heat-shrink tubing around wires and connectors – Loosening up stubborn adhesive or labels – Softening 3D prints just slightly for fitting over pixels or brackets
Soldering Iron Kit https://amzn.to/43Zn3Sw	This is my daily driver for soldering. It heats up insanely fast (about 10 seconds), which is perfect for someone like me who jumps between soldering, crimping, and wiring constantly. I use it for: – Repairing pixel nodes strings – Tinning wires – Touch-ups on level shifters and ESP32 boards It’s not fancy, but it’s reliable and gets the job done.

Yes, this gear list is a long one.
But that’s because this is everything I use to bring my pixel light show to life. From WT32-ETH01 controllers and server PSUs to 3D printers, PETG spools, wiring, tools, and bench-test gear, it all matters.

Building and maintaining a show like this takes a lot of moving parts, and every item here has helped me get to where I am now. If you’re reading this because you’re starting your own show, welcome to the hobby. You’re going to love it.

If you have questions, suggestions, or ideas for your own build, feel free to leave a comment and share your thoughts. I enjoy hearing from others in the community and growing these projects together.

Now go build something awesome.