My Gear List
The Hardware, Tools, and 3D Printing Setup Behind My Ethernet Pixel Light Show
Welcome to the complete gear breakdown for my Ethernet-based pixel light show. This is where I list the exact hardware I’m currently using in my project box, my network layout, my 3D printers and filaments, and the tools and accessories that help the whole show run smoothly.
Some of the items below may contain affiliate links (such as Amazon Associates), which means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them. This helps support future upgrades, replacement pixels, and a lot of late-night testing.
Controller Hardware
| Device | Usage |
| WT32-ETH01 https://amzn.to/3XnmDBJ | My main controller for every prop. I chose these instead of typical Wi-Fi ESP32 boards because Ethernet gives me: – stable timing – faster responsiveness – no dropouts – perfect sync with my FPP server I also prefer the non-welded version so I can change the orientation of the Ethernet port and solder the pins exactly how I want for my own project box layouts. Although these boards include Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, I turn both off in WLED to save processing resources and avoid unnecessary wireless broadcasting. |
| ESP32 Wi-Fi Bluetooth Dev Board USB-C https://amzn.to/4akvsDQ | These are my go-to boards for testing WS2811 strings, new pixels, or small prototype setups before a prop gets permanently wired and added to the show. They’re cheap, reliable, easy to set up, and perfect for bench testing without needing to open the main controller box. |
| ESP32 38Pin Expansion Breakout Boards https://amzn.to/4rz01Ms | I had several of these leftover from a previous electronics project. They turned out to be extremely useful for this build because: – The extra pins act as clean landing points for wires – Great for quick testing – Perfect for temporarily securing connections until final installation – Helpful when experimenting with sensors or add-ons Basically: they keep your workspace neat instead of becoming a rat’s nest of loose wires. |
| Logic Level Shifter Converter Module Shifter 5V https://amzn.to/48pjSoj | There’s a lot of debate in the community about whether you should use: – a level shifter, or – a “sacrificial” spare WS2811 pixel as a buffer People argue both sides, and honestly, I’m not 100% sure how much a spare pixel really helps. But what I can say is this: Adding a proper 5V level shifter to my controller completely eliminated the low data power blinking issues I saw on a few longer strings. For me, the level shifter = cleaner data + fewer headaches. |
| Dupont Wire Jumper Set https://amzn.to/48HizT4 | These are essential for: – prototype wiring – testing pixels on dev boards – connecting to breakouts – bridging test connections – even some final controller installs If you’re working with ESP32 boards (Ethernet or Wi-Fi), you’ll go through these constantly. |
Pixels & Power
This section covers the exact pixels, power supplies, and electrical components I use in my light show with the real reasons behind my choices. Some decisions were about reliability, some about availability, and some were just me being resourceful and using what I already had in the home lab.
| Device | Usage |
| WS2811 12V 12mm RGB Pixel LEDs https://amzn.to/48IITME | These are the main pixels I use throughout my show, and honestly, I chose 12V WS2811 nodes for a simple reason: They’re everywhere. 12V is the most widely available voltage for beginner- and mid-level pixel builds, and they’re extremely forgiving when your wiring runs start getting longer. I also purposely buy the cheapest versions without the waterproof X-Connect or RayWu connectors. Why? – I like customizing my pixel strings – I prefer stripping and terminating wires myself – I enjoy building exactly what I need – And yes… it saves money, somewhat Does it take more effort? Absolutely. More parts? Yep. More cursing while crimping? Can’t really tell. But the tradeoff is total flexibility. You can cut, splice, and modify strings however you like, no proprietary connectors or adapters needed. Your mileage may vary. Some people love the plug-and-play nature of X-Connect. But for me? Customizing my own wiring is half the fun. I like the WS2811’s with the power injection pigtails coming off the nodes themselves for easier builds. |
| HP Server PSU Power https://amzn.to/4pditIW | This is hands-down my favorite “hack” in the entire build. Instead of buying a dedicated pixel power supply, I went into my home lab stash and grabbed a couple HP server power supplies I had left over from previous cloud, storage, and AI server builds. These things are absolute monsters: – Platinum efficiency rating – 750W to 1400W+ output (especially at 200–240V) – Rock-solid 12V rails – Designed to run 24/7 for years – Built to handle constant load without flinching – Practically indestructible These units were originally used in enterprise server racks, but the ones you find online now are usually renewed/refurbished, which makes them super affordable compared to buying brand-new pixel power supplies or high-end Mean Wells. And here’s the best part: If these PSUs can handle virtualized servers, storage arrays, and GPU compute racks… then a few WS2811 pixels are basically a vacation for them. |
| GPU Crypto Mining PSU Breakout Boards https://amzn.to/4ptdSm9 | Rather than wiring them raw, I use mining breakout boards, the same type used in GPU crypto mining rigs. Why? Because they give you: – Multiple clean 12V outputs – 6-pin GPU connectors – Built-in protections – Easy wiring distribution I already had these boards and GPU power cables from old crypto mining builds, so it made sense to reuse them. |


